So I’m back at work after a very nice long weekend. We camped at Ezemvelo which is about 25km outside the town of Bronkhorstspruit. I did not try to check out the supposedly splendid bouldering there, but we did head out to Bronkies for some climbing.
Fragile Ego (17)
Starts with a small overhang that you have to overcome, followed by an interesting move on much smaller holds in order to gain a bigger ledge, which is where the problem lies: you’re so pumped that sidestepping the whole section(and thus going totally off-route) seems much more attractive, which is then off course what I did 
(Better not tell the route police about that one….) Ends with an intimidating yet easy arete up onto a big block for clipping the chains. Fun climb, next time I won’t wimp out *promise to self*
Kate’s Moss (17)(a.k.a. Emile’s nemesis climb)
Finally, I got this one in perfect style and with plenty of juice to spare. I’ve been up this route 5-10 times (I’ve lost count over the years ) and each time it’s been a battle – the times I got the mid section crux, I was so pumped that the last section was a nightmare. Not anymore. As it turns out it’s all in the feet – I got it so easily this time that this once dreaded route will now be my warm up – whooohooo!!!
George’s Bush (20)
On top-rope and in bad style, but I got up this beast. Excellent and fun route, +- 25m long with 2 distinct cruxes, the first being the overhang / big bulge at the start, followed by easy climbing to the second crux. Some small slopy grips and a big keeyaay gets you over a small bulge on to a ledge from where it’s relatively easy climbing to the chains. I loved it and it’s my goal to red-point this one in good style.
We had a late start and the sun was catching up with us, so this was the end of the climbing – not that I think I had any juice left for another hard climb.
So, it’s more hangdog this week, I’ll start working the small rail and pockets more. I find the smaller crimps to be my downfall at this point. The one’s on the second crux of George’s Bush was quite different from what I can (or at least tried to) practise on the finger board.
I can’t yet honestly report back any major finger strength gains, but it’s a bit hard to be subjective. In order to build a solid foundation and avoid injury I’ve purposely not aimed for big short term gains. Having said that I can’t deny that I’m able to hold on to much smaller holds and get up routes I could not fathom before. On George’s Bush the first big move is onto a slopy looking hold and I was very pleased to find a edge on it onto which I could fit about 1 digits of 2 fingers, AND then pull from there onto the next big hold – that must count for something? Yes, me & myself think it’s starting to pay off.
